My Kyushu Self-Drive Adventure
>> 06 February 2012
When tourists think of holidaying in Japan, they usually think of Honshu (Tokyo, Osaka, Kyoto etc.), and Hokkaido. Few people would have heard of Kyushu, let alone consider Kyushu. In recent times, I have heard so much of Kyushu being an “Undiscovered Gem”. People who had been there highly recommended Kyushu as a holiday destination and regaled me with exciting adventures of self-drive trips. Therefore, when the invitation came to embark on a self-drive trip to Kyushu, I grabbed it with both hands.
Day 1. On 14 December 2011, I landed at Fukuoka Airport at 11.35am. There, we were welcomed by our guides and tourism authority officials. We were led to our three rented cars. I was assigned a Toyota Wish for the first day. The friendly rental company staff explained to us how to use the GPS set. All the driver had to do was to key in either the map code or the phone number of the destination. Our first stop was Beppu, a two-hour drive away. Beppu is famous for its onsens.
We visited Beppu Umijigoku (“Beppu Hells”). You will see spectacular hot springs that are more for viewing than for bathing, because the water is boiling hot. Each hot spring has its peculiar features and names, such as “Sea Hell” and “Blood Hell”. The latter is the most visually arresting and scary, because the minerals in the water make the water red.
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| Red hot springs at Beppu Hells |
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| Breakfast of fishes |
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| Car rental for self-drive |
It was very windy when I crossed the bridge. The bridge swayed a little, but it was built this way to counter the windy conditions and it felt reliable and solid. With the winds, it felt like below-zero temperature. Luckily, there were friendly vending machines waiting at the both ends of the bridge, where I bought a can of warm Pokka sweet red bean drink!
Today’s drive was especially therapeutic. We drove on the Yamanami Highway, a scenic route that connects Aso with Beppu. The roads were very wide. I felt like I was driving across continental Australia. On the way to Mt. Aso, we enjoyed sweeping views of rolling hills, great plains, snowy mountains, and the occasional deers and cows. One important stop was the Daikanbo Peak. It is situated on the caldera rim of the north of Aso Caldera. It is a vantage point to look out to the Aso Valley, the Aso Five-Peaks, and all the northern rims of Aso Caldera. The Aso Five-Peaks resembles a sleeping Buddha and is admired by many.
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| The awesome views at Daikanbo Peak |
Next stop, El Rancho Grande. It is a Western-style horse-riding ground where you can rent a horse for 20 minutes or more for a ride around the surrounding fields. I counted five horses on standby, of which some were white and some were brown. All were very handsome horses. I was assigned a white one, albeit the oldest among them. Two Japanese cowboys taught us how to mount and control the horse. It was all too easy: a soft foot-tap on the horse’s belly would be to tell the horse to move forward; a left tug of the leash would be to turn left, and a soft pulling back of the leash would be to slow down or stop. The two cowboys led us on a ride of the countryside and we admired the farms and nature. Initially, the horse was not used to my riding style. After a while, we gelled! I felt like I could gallop down the fields like a champion jockey.
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| A handsome horse at El Rancho Grande |
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| Enjoying the horse ride |
We hit the Yamanami Highway again to set off for Mt. Aso crater. To get to the smoking crater of Nakadake, one has to take the Mt. Aso Ropeway to the top. Nakadake is an active crater with turquoise-green water at 60 degrees Celsius at times of moderate activity. The water turns grey as its temperature rises. I saw many emergency shelters made of solid rock, and they served to protect visitors from the volcanic rocks that might suddenly fly out from the crater during unexpected volcanic activity. There were many sensors and alarms installed around the crater to warn visitors of an increase in volcanic activity. The area was filled with sulphuric fumes and the crater lake was incessantly bubbling.
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| Mt Aso Ropeway |
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| Active Nakadake crater lake
The ‘Mysterious Road’ phenomenon does not only appear in known places such as Korea and Shenyang. It also appeared along the Yamanami Highway! As I was driving, the tour guide suddenly told me to stop the car and asked me if I could detect a phenomenon. To my surprise, our vehicle appeared to climb uphill in the neutral gear! Drivers of many vehicles around ours were also testing out the phenomenon. If you were to be on the opposite side, your vehicle would apparently be rolling backwards even though the down slope was in front of you! Mysterious indeed.
At nightfall, we arrived at Kumamoto City, a beautiful city known for its Kumamoto Castle. After returning our car at the rental shop, we took a tram to our dinner place, which offered a fantastic view of Kumamoto Castle. Kumamoto Castle is a major landmark of Kumamoto City, and is regarded as one of the most impressive castles in Japan, together with the white-walled Hijemi Castle and the black-walled Matsumoto Castle. In addition, Kumamoto Castle is considered a most impregnable fortress even until today. Its main defensive features include very high stone walls with wooden overhangs (originally designed as protection against the ninja), and a wide moat. There are many escape passageways within the castle. At night, the castle is illuminated and the view breathtaking.
Kumamoto Castle
Day 3. We drove our cars to Kumamoto Port to take an express ferry to Shimabara Port enroute to Nagasaki. We drove into the ferry, parked and went onto the ferry deck to feed the seagulls! It was an exhilarating experience. You hold up the bread crumbs, and the nearest or fastest seagull would grab the crumbs within the next few seconds without hurting your fingers! I was hesitant of being bitten initially, but after seeing my fellow traveller use his lips to hold the crumbs up and a seagull swooping in for the kill with nary any injury, my fear dissipated. The view of Shimabara Bay was fantastic. We reached the opposite shore in half an hour, and drove off the ferry.
 
We drove up the mountain to Nita Pass (1,080m above sea level), where we took a ropeway to the summit of Mt. Myoken. On a clear day, one can enjoy a commanding view of Shimabara Peninsula and Bay. However, it was snowing that day and the summit was fogged. At the Nita Pass, we could see the lava dome of Heisei Shinzan. It had been newly created in 1990 when Mt. Fugen erupted.
Next stop was Unzen Hell. There were many pools of bubbling springs dotted around the area, and the whole area was covered with white clay. The white clay is called ‘solfataric clay’. The clay had been altered and decolourised by fumarolic gas, hot spring heat and acidic water. The energy source is assumed to be the magma reservoir under the seabed of the Tachibana Bay. The highest temperature of the fumarolic gas, blown out with hissing noises, can be 120°C. White and light yellow sinter deposits were attached on the ground around the fumaroles. We bought hard-boiled eggs cooked by the bubbling water and ate them with a dash of salt. More delicious than usual!  
We drove on to Nagasaki. Nagasaki, capital of Nagasaki Prefecture and the fifth largest city in Kyushu, is an important port city with more than four centuries of history. It prospered as Japan’s sole “window” to Western culture during its 300 years of national isolation. Nagasaki has thriving shipbuilding and fisheries industries and is especially noted for its marine products, such as cultured pearls, tortoiseshell and coral works. To the world, it was also known the second city in Japan, after Hiroshima, to experience an atomic explosion during the Second World War.
We headed for the Nagasaki Atomic Bomb Museum and Peace Park. The Atomic Bomb Museum was built to show the world the horror of the 1945 atomic bombing of Nagasaki and the need to eliminate all nuclear weapons. The Peace Statue in the Peace Park was constructed in 1955 by donations from all over the world, and is highly symbolic. The right hand pointing skyward warns about the threat of the atomic bomb. The left hand stretching out horizontally symbolizes world peace. The gently-closed eyes represent a prayer for the repose of the souls of all atomic bomb victims. At the Hypocenter Park, a memorial monolith marks the exact spot below the center of the atomic bomb explosion, which occurred at 11.02am, August 9, 1945. Looking at the exhibits, I could not help but felt stunned by the horrific nature of wars and was deeply saddened by the plight of the innocent victims.
 
Pictures showing the horrors of an atomic explosion
   
The right hand pointing skyward warns about the threat of the atomic bomb. The left hand stretching out horizontally symbolizes world peace. The gently-closed eyes represent a prayer for the repose of the souls of all atomic bomb victims.
Next, we headed for Mt. Inasa to enjoy the night view of Nagasaki City, the spot proclaimed to be “One of the top three night views of Japan”. We took the Nagasaki Ropeway, an all-transparent gondola, to the summit of Mt. Inasa (333m above ground). The journey up was spectacular. The sweeping views from Mt. Inasa Lookout were even better. I could see why it lived up to its name; the amazing glittering lights of Nagasaki City that is situated on undulating mountain slopes. At the Lookout, you would see many triangles lit up on the ground, and amongst the hundreds of triangles, there was a love-shaped symbol. According to a popular saying, one would find love if one could find the symbol. I found it in 3 minutes. A good sign indeed!
Night view of Nagasaki atop Mt. Inasa
Day 4. After breakfast, we headed back to Fukuoka. It was going to be a two-hour drive. Our first stop was Dazaifu Tenman-gu Shrine. Dazaifu Tenman-gu Shrine enshrines Sugawara Michizane (845-903) as the god of academic achievement. Before the entrance examination each year, young people from all parts of Japan come to the shrine to pray for success in the examination. The approach to the shrine is lined with teahouses selling 'umegae-mochi,' a local specialty rice-cake that is believed to ward off illness. There are many shops selling food. We went to a particular shop famous for its red bean desserts and mocha. The venerable boss was at the shop front busy making red bean cakes. His dedication to perfection was there for all to see.
At the shrine, there was a blessing session going on. The devotees were immaculately dressed in suits or kimonos. A newborn baby was being blessed by the priest. Good luck charms were sold at the stalls. For lunch, our tour guide led us to a secluded path off the main thoroughfare into a small residential neighbourhood. Suddenly, she turned into a huge compound that looked like a residence, only to discover that it was actually a Japanese restaurant nestled in a Japanese garden setting. This restaurant specializes in serving many variants of tofu dishes. We sat tatami-style and were fussed about by a kimono-clad waitress, whilst enjoying the Japanese garden setting and delicious food.
   
Chef making red bean cakes
Authentic mocha with red bean dessert
We headed to Hakata Machiya Folk Museum. Formerly, Hakata was an independent city. From Heian period (AD 794-1185) to Azuchi-Momoyama period (AD 1568–1600), Hakata's merchants traded with Chinese, Korean, and other overseas merchants. The life and culture of Hakata, mainly of the Meiji and Taisho eras (AD 1868–1926), are introduced from various perspectives at this Museum.
  
Kushida Shrine was just across the road. Kushida Shrine has a long history as the village shrine in Fukuoka City. Shrines for each of Shinto’s three gods (Amaterasu Omikami, Ohatanushi no-Omikami, and Susano no-Omikami) were built in 757 AD and 941 AD. The shrine is fervently revered as “Okushida-sama” or “God of Immortality and Success in Business”. It is also the starting point of Fukuoka’s most famous festival, “Hakata Gion Yamakasa”, which is held on 1st to 15th of July. You will see tens of men carrying a float or “Oi-Yama” weighing as heavy as one ton racing down the roads in the early hours of the morning on the 15th day.
   Next stop is the Canal City Hakata. Most ladies will like this place. Other than the Tenjin shopping area, Canal City Hakata is the place to be for food, shopping and entertainment. On the fifth storey, you can find cinemas and many restaurants. There is a Ramen stadium on the sixth storey serving different types of Ramen from all parts of Japan. At the basement, you can find open areas to relax and admire the musical fountain as the water sways to the music. The recently-opened annex contains a huge Uniqlo store and several international brands. I find the quaint cafes especially interesting. One can literally spend a whole day in Canal City. After shopping, you may walk along the Naka River situated just beside Canal City and enjoy the romantic scenery. You can even try the “Yatai”, which are standalone sheds dotted along the riverside and serving authentic Fukuoka cuisine.     
A “Yatai” serving authentic Fukuoka cuisine by the Naka River, the main river of Fukuoka.
After wrapping up our shopping at Canal City Hakata, we took the Velotaxis, a form of human-peddled modern trishaw, for a tour around the city. Many shoppers were amused by our mode of transportation and waved at and posed with us. It was thirty-minute ride and we alighted at the Tenjin shopping area. 
Velotaxi
 Day 5 to 7. I extended my trip by another 3 days to take in more sights of Kyushu and to visit and relax at some of the best onsens in Japan. No more driving from now on. However, I did miss all the driving because it felt so therapeutic to drive on such wide roads and be accompanied by wonderful sights, not to mention the utmost courtesy and driving etiquettes displayed by Japanese drivers.
I visited Yufuin, one of the best-known onsen towns in Japan. From Tenjin station, I took a two-hour bus ride to eastern Kyushu. I have heard so much about this place from the locals. Yufuin is a quiet little town situated in a valley and blessed with numerous onsens. The main thoroughfare is located five minutes away from the bus terminal and is lined with many shops selling food, gifts, local produce and drinks. If you are tired, a café is never more than a stone’s throw away. I asked the Tourist Information Centre to recommend an onsen, and they recommended one that required a fifteen-minute walk. The onsen has two pools, and both overlook a mountain. The outdoor temperature was ten degrees Celsius and the skies were clear, perfect conditions to relax in an open-air onsen. I had both the pools to myself. Water in one pool was really hot, and water in the other was more acceptable to a less-seasoned onsen goer like me. After thirty minutes of soaking and enjoying the mountain scenery, I felt thoroughly detoxified. With renewed appetite, I headed down to the main thoroughfare in search of food and desserts. Along the way, I experienced “Japan Hour” - picturesque mountains surrounding me; crystal-clear fresh water gushing down the stream on my left; refreshing mountain air oxygenating my mind; living in my own world. Surreal.
    To me, visiting Japan means going to onsens, eat, and going to more onsens, so I visited another the following day. A friend recommended this onsen called清渑, located in the suburbs of Fukuoka. There is a complimentary hourly shuttle bus that picks you up in the city near Tenjin Station. The ride took fifty minutes, and you would probably sit next to an obasan (‘auntie’ in Japanese) or ojisan (‘uncle’ in Japanese). Elderly Japanese and retirees are probably the most frequent visitors to onsens. Upon reaching the destination, it gave me another “Japan Hour” experience. 清渑 is located in a valley and is blessed with excellent hot spring waters. The sprawling complex consisted of several traditional wooden structure interlinked together. Facilities include separate hot spring baths for men and women, a restaurant serving delicious Japanese food, massage services, sleeping area and bathing facilities. For the male onsen, there were six different types of hot springs, including a waterfall, cold water pool, hydrosonic pool and mini electric-current pool. I felt reinvigorated and hungry again. I took a refreshing bath and napped a bit before tucking into a sumptuous lunch. The whole experience lasted a little less than three hours, and I boarded the shuttle bus back to the city. 
Shuttle bus to 清渑
清渑 onsen
I will like to wrap up this article by sharing some delicious food pictures, and other non-food pictures which I think are interesting. After this trip, I was left in no doubt that I would go back again and do another round of self-drive. The next time, it shall be Southern Kyushu, leading to Kagoshima.
Vending machine at Matsuya (“松屋”), one of the three leading Japanese fast-food chains selling beef rice or “gyudon”. The other two chains are Yoshinoya and Sukiya. The vending machine’s options are mind-boggling, isn’t it?
Beef portions were more generous and tastier than those in Singapore!
Three types of raw chicken meat!
Raw horsemeat, popular in Kyushu. Tasted like beef.
Silky smooth tofu dish served at a restaurant in Dazaifu Shrine.
  
Cute sand drawing on the beach in front of the tower.
View of Fukuoka city from the top of Fukuoka Tower.
That's me taking a break from driving and posing with the Aso mountain ranges.
Hakata Excel Hotel Tokyu in Fukuoka. This was the hotel I stayed in. I liked it for its superb location. By foot: Nakasu subway station- 3 mins; Canal City Hakata- 15 mins; Tenjin Station- 10 mins; Naka River- just in front.
My comfortable room.
 Fukuoka Tower, the tallest structure in Kyushu at 234m.  "Yi-Lan" Ramen, one of the most famous ramen chains in Kyushu  Their signature Ramen dish. Notice the thick and delicious broth. |
