A Soulful Experience in Seoul

Who can forget that timeless scene of Jun-Sang kissing Yu-Jin in Winter Sonata? Who can ignore the superhuman performances of Park Ji-sung with Manchester United in sweeping away their opponents in the British Premier League? Who can neglect the wave of K-pop and Korean culture sweeping the world contagiously? It does make one curious about the enigma of South Korea, doesn’t it?

One fine day in July, on a sudden whim, I decided to visit the country I have always wanted to, and which almost everyone else had already visited. I took a Singapore Airlines midnight flight and arrived on a summer Saturday morning at Incheon International Airport. My friend picked me up and the first stop was to hit the Korean version of spa called Jjimjilbang, the perfect cure for an overnight flight. There, I showered and slept till noon. What is a real holiday without sufficient rest?

My friend told me I have not been to Seoul if I were not to try the “Best Beef BBQ” in South Korea. A long queue had formed by the time we reached at 5.30pm. Luckily, my friend knew the service staff and we were quickly accommodated. This shop is called Seo Seo Galbi. It is located near Sinchon Street, a famous university area bustling with youthful energy. No reservations can be made at Seo Seo Galbi, and when the ingredient runs out, it closes shop. There is no seat either; you have to stand around a BBQ cylinder to do the grilling. The cooking process is simple. Just pour the secret sauce with garlic onto the marinated beef, and whilst waiting for the beef to be cooked, you can chomp on the non-spicy green chilli. Once done, you dip it into the secret sauce again. I must confess that this was by far my most satisfied meal in Seoul!

Shopfront of Seo Seo Galbi

Yummy, isn't it?
Combination of high-quality charcoal, expertly-marinated beef, secret sauce
and the standing-while-barbecuing process makes for an unforgettable experience!

After dinner, we took a short walk to Sinchon Street for coffee. Sinchon Street is surrounded by three universities, and thus you can feel the vibrancy of the area. There are many cafes, restaurants, pubs, shops, Hyundai Department Store and internet cafes (called “PC Bang”). It is a place for young people to chill out.

Sinchon Street by day.

Sinchon Street by night.

Day 2. Being an avid history fan, one of the main objectives of this trip was to visit the Demilitarized Zone or DMZ. I have long been fascinated by the origin and history of the 38th parallel that separates DPR Korea and South Korea. It is one of the last remnants of the Cold War. The journey from Seoul to Panmunjom took 45 minutes. When I got off the car, the realization that I was less than five kilometers away from DPR Korea hit me. I visited the Freedom Bridge, the only bridge over the Imjingak River connecting DPR Korea and South Korea. The bridge got its name when 13,000 war prisoners shouted "Hurray Freedom!" as they returned home crossing the bridge following the Armistice Agreement in 1953.

Across the bridge lies DPR Korea.

A bullet-riddled train used in the Korean War. 

The Third Tunnel is a tunnel under the border between DPR Korea and South Korea. It was the third tunnel to be discovered running under the border between the two Koreas. Only 44km from Seoul, the tunnel was discovered in October 1978 based on information provided by a defector. It is 1.7km long, 2m high and 2m wide. Its depth is about 73m below ground.

This sculpture symbolizes the wishes of the people on both sides for reconciliation.

We left Panmunjom for Seoul to have a late lunch. My friend introduced me to a special dish called Andong Jjimdak. The name literally means “steamed chicken of Andong”. It originated in Gyeongsangbukdo, Andong. According to a source, in 1980 at Andong Market’s Chicken Town, chefs began adding a variety of ingredients into their roasted chicken, and Andong Jjimdak was born. It is a large-plated dish that is ideally eaten in a big group. Other than generous portions of chicken, I saw potatoes, crab meat, mussels, mushrooms, onions, vegetables and Chinese flat rice noodles. The brown sauce was sweet and flavourful. You can literally taste the goodness of the ingredients in the sauce.

Seafood combination version.

Original chicken version.

N Seoul Tower is the tallest point in South Korea. It is a communication and observation tower located on Namsan Mountain in central Seoul. Namsan Mountain is 243m high, and N Seoul Tower is 236.7m tall, so the tower tops out at 479.7m above ground. I took a bus up and walked approximately 60m up a steep slope to the base. For a fee, you can go up to the four levels of observation decks at the top, where you enjoy breathtaking views of Seoul. There are numerous cafes where you can enjoy your coffee and the panoramic views. If you are tired of walking, you can choose to take a cable car down the mountain.

From N Seoul Tower, it is only 193.6km away from Pyongyang.

Singapore is 4,651.9km away.
Assuming a constant driving speed of 100km/h, you will take 47 hours. Not that unachievable. isn't it?

Across the Han River stands the "63 building". At 249m high, it became the tallest building outside North America when completed in 1985, but a few months later, the title went to OUB Centre in Singapore. Now it is the 3rd tallest building in South Korea. Its attraction lies in the fact its golden facade shimmers during sunrise and sunset. 

Panoramic view of Seoul

Famished, we headed for a Korean seafood dinner.

On the right is a dish of live squid. Live squid is considered a Korean delicacy. The dish in the middle is raw fish.

The soju on the left goes very well with the seafood.
Unfortunately, I forgot the name. If you know Korean, you can read the name for yourself.

Day 3. Today is Myeongdong day! Myeongdong is a name associated with shopping, chilling out, mingling with the youth of Seoul, and checking out the latest fashion. I took the subway and stopped right in front of Myeongdong. This place reminded me very much of Harajuku of Tokyo. You see Starbucks, Coffee Bean, Krispy Kreme, Adidas, The Body Shop and so forth (which are all international brands), and you see a high ratio of local eateries and shops. The majority of the shops are selling facial and skin care products. It takes at least half a day to fully explore the area. Luckily for me, there were many cafes for me to chill out at every now and then.

Shop galore!
Myeongdong is a place people keep going back to, for shopping, eating, chilling out, or simply to see and be seen!

If you like shopping at wholesale rates, you need to head down to Dongdaemun. Spread over a wide area, you can choose from the over 30,000 specialty shops. You can shop in an air-conditioned building with floors and floors of small proprietor stalls selling silk, fabric, shoes, leather goods, electronic goods, accessories, beads, curtains etc, or you can shop outdoors à la ‘Pasar Malam’ style.

8 stories of shops in the building complex.

Outdoor 'Pasar Malam'.

Outdoor eateries.

After a hectic day of shopping, it is time to wind down at the romantic Cheonggyecheon Stream. It is a stream that cuts through the middle of the busy business district, from Gyeongbokgung Palace past Seoul Plaza, Namdaemun, Dongdaemum, Insadong Street and so forth. I was at Changdeokgung Palace (which is also near the stream) and wanted to go to Namdaemum, so I took the subway to a transit station for the train to Namdaemum, taking 45 minutes in total. When I got out of the station, I realized I was just beside the Cheonggyecheon Stream that led to Changdeokgung Palace. I could have easily walked 15 minutes to my destination instead of taking the subway! That was when I realised that the stream was really connected to many attractions.

Cheonggyecheon Stream attracts many couples at night. Walking down the stream, you can see murals on the walls, dip your feet in the cool stream, or climb out of the stream to chill out at the numerous cafes and pubs that line the stream.

No less than five couples asked me to take photographs of them as i walked down the stream!

Day 4. Insadong represents the focal point of Korean traditional culture and crafts. Stores in Insa-dong specialize in a wide variety of goods that are uniquely Korean: hanbok (traditional clothing), hanji (traditional paper), traditional teas, pottery, and folk crafts. You can find painters, craftsmen, and art lovers setting up shop along the narrow alleys, making it a unique place full of folk crafts, pottery, and paintings. Various art events and festivals are regularly held along the street.

You can find a variety of traditional Korean craft and culture at Insadong.

You can also try traditional snacks alongside modern cafes.

No visit is complete without visiting Gyeongbokgung Palace and Changdeokgung Palace. Built in 1395 and reconstructed in 1867, Gyeongbokgung Palace, otherwise known as “Palace of Shining Happiness”, is located in northern Seoul and is arguably the grandest and largest of all five palaces built by the Joseon Dynasty.

Changdeokgung Palace, otherwise known as “Palace of Prospering Virtue”, was the second royal villa built in 1405 following the construction of Gyeongbokgung Palace. It was the principal palace for many of the Joseon Kings and is the most well-preserved of the five remaining royal palaces.

Changdeokgung was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1997. The palace was used to film part of the hugely popular Korean drama Dae Jang Geum (“大長今”).

The entrance of Gyeongbokgung Palace.

Gyeongbokgung Palace in the far background in the evening.

Entrance to Changdeokgung Palace, a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Known as Injeongjeon Hall, it was used for major state affairs,
including the coronation of a new king and receiving foreign envoys. 

Vast expanse of Changdeokgung Palace grounds.

Interior of one of the many halls.

The National Palace Museum of Korea is located next to Gyeongbokgung Palace and was opened in 1992 to display relics from the Joseon Dynasty (1392 to 1910). Over 20,000 royal relics from Gyeongbokgung Palace, Changdeokgung Palace, Changgyeonggung Palace and Jongmyo Shrine are on display. It is a two-storey building with a basement, and all three stories contain historical records such as royal symbols and records, ancestral rites, palace architecture, ancient science instruments and life in the palace.

Entrance to The National Palace Museum of Korea.

Depictions of the life of a royalty.

These two majestic cars were used by the Royal Family in the early 20th century.

Night fell. It was time for the Bibap show! The 80-minute performance was about two chefs vying for honours. In doing so, the audience was treated a spectacular of break-dancing, beat-box, martial arts and comical manoeuvres. Each of the 8 performers possessed a unique skill-set: 2 actors were the best B-boy dancers I have witnessed; 2 actors had the ability to mimic any sound, noise, beat and rhythm possible; 2 actresses had soprano-like singing abilities; the 2 lead actors had such comical acting skills that it was practically impossible to avoid laughing and falling off your seat. The show was interactive and involved the audience. I commend them for putting together such a highly entertaining act. (Note: For the ladies, one of the B-boys was very cute and athletic. Besides his boyish looks, he could actually grab a pole and hanged himself horizontally for a good 5 seconds. What fitness!)

Returning to the grounds of Gyeongbokgung Palace, I went to the National Folk Museum of Korea where over 4,000 historical artifacts that were used in the daily lives of ordinary Korean people were on display. Here, you can learn about Korea’s traditional domestic and agricultural lifestyles, and cultural beliefs.

National Folk Museum of Korea.

An inscription that describes how King Sejong, who felt compassion towards the illiterate, invented
the Korean language in December 1443. The Korean language is the only language in the world
with a clear purpose, known inventor and known time of creation.

Transcripts of Chinese alphabets being translated to Korean alphabets.

Displays of explaining the origins and different types of kimchi. Kimchi is a wonder dish.
It can be made into a soup, enhance the flavour of other dishes, or be eaten raw.

Day 5. Namdaemun, which literally means “South Gate,” was once the southern gate of the ancient walls that protected Seoul. Now, it is one of the busiest markets in the country. Whether you are looking for traditional medicine, leather goods or clothing, Namdaemun is the place to go. You can also find lots of stalls selling Korean seafood and local delicacies. It is located in central Seoul and you can easily reach there by subway.

Street teeming with shoppers and stall owners.

Korean seafood hawker-style

The gate at the main thoroughfare.

Jokbal is a Korean dish consisting of pigs' feet cooked with soy sauce and spices. Usually eaten wrapped in lettuce.

After taking the above Jokbal pictures, I met another friend for dinner. Never did I expect that he would treat me to a Jokbal dinner! It was a cosy and small restaurant and packed to the brim with office executives in suits. From their looks, it is obvious that the locals enjoy eating this dish very much.

Jokbal served with clear soup. As Jokbal can be quite greasy, it is usually eaten
with lettuce and accompanied by clear or vegetable soup.

Jokbal in its full glory. Goes very well with soju.

After dinner, my friend recommended me to visit Hongdae area near Hongik University. This place was packed with clubs, pubs, restaurants and cafes. At 1am, the area was still bustling with party-goers and supper addicts. 90% of the crowd were university students, and the area is well-known for its nocturnal activities. I spotted a TV crew filming an amateur student rock band performing in the street, and although the performance was average, the student crowd simply threw in their support and rocked hard with the band. Certainly an area not to be missed if you are a night owl.

Shops selling clothes, beads, accessories etc.

Numerous cafes and pubs lining the streets. One is spoilt for choice here.

Taken at 1am on an early Thursday morning, a TV crew was filming a student rock band performing.

Day 6. I watched the afternoon NANTA show in Myeongdong. The musical was about three cooks attempting to prepare a wedding banquet within a strict time limit while the manager installed his incompetent nephew among the kitchen staff. The show involved acrobatics, magic tricks, comedy, catchy beats and audience participation. Most of the sounds created were derived from cutting boards, water canisters and kitchen knives. The performance was almost completely non-verbal. NANTA is the longest-running show in Korean history.

In the evening, I took a stroll along Hangang Park located by the Han River. It was a very relaxing place where couples strolled hand in hand, families had their picnics and people jogged or were on roller-blades. The imposing structure of the 63 Building loomed in the background, with its golden façade reflecting the shimmering rays of the sunset.

Imposing structure of the 63 Building

 A relaxing riverfront avenue for all walks of life.

Supper beckoned and I went to Myeongdong in search of food. I chanced upon an alley full of people apparently ordering from the same restaurant, and thus I assumed the food must be excellent. I ordered the dish that was common on all tables. It is a wonderful combination of vegetables (sliced cucumber, leeks etc.) and fresh seafood (mussels, abalone etc.), topped with a refreshing clear sauce. I still have not figured out the name of the dish, but if you know Korean, you can see the name in the picture.

A seafood-vegetables dish that has a very delightful taste.
One serving feeds 2-3 people. Goes wonderfully well with beer.

Korean name of the dish.

The alley was packed full of customers and office executives
 who knocked off late at night, typical of the Korean corporate culture.

Facade of the restaurant.

Day 7. It is time to say “Annyong-hi kashipshio” (“Good bye” in Korean) to Seoul. I will be back for sure.

Hotel Capital was where i put up. Located in Itaewon, an area famous
for its night scenes and frequented by foreign tourists,
it is a four-star hotel located near the Noksapyeong subway station.
There is a Starbucks outlet and convenience shop just outside the hotel.
Note: Please bring along your own toiletries. Seoul is dedicated to its environmental-friendly initiatives.